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Thread: Hello John, got a new mota.. Again...

  1. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr J View Post

    Maybe I'm geting old
    We all are!

    Not done much driving since my last post due to CV19 unfortunately. I've been to the fuel station once since March!

  2. #182
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    wow thats a long sabatical mate,, in my experience getting a mapper to look at economy parameters is next to impossible lol and ive asked loads of times to make my low boost/actuator setting an economy tweek to the map

  3. #183
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    It's time consuming to sort out the off load mapping well, one of the reasons i wanted to learn to map the car myself.

    I did one event just before lockdown, won that overall, so not completely forgotten how to drive just yet.

  4. #184
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    I saw that someone had the off load mapping done by EFI. They had spent some time doing idle too.

  5. #185
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    Mine is rock solid idle.
    Car passed it's MOT today, another 13 months ticket. Only did 4K miles this last 11.5 months, now on 132K miles.

  6. #186
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    My idle went wonky and the engine kept stalling at junctions and roundabouts. Very annoying. I have some spare ICV's but I suspect it's the MAF (yes, I still have one of those). I've checked all pipes for leaks too.

  7. #187
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    Just a little update, I had my first car wont run failure recently, which is not bad going for nearly 12 years ownership.

    The Perrin 4BAR MAP sensor failed, reading 0mBar, so engine would fire and stop instantly.

    Fortunately I still had my OEM stock MAP sensor in a box, so checked the spec of that which is a 22627AA260 which is rated at 3.0BAR, as I only run the current turbo at 1.8BAR peak, that would be ideal. Fortunately it failed on my drive, so I was at home but all my tools were at work, so I popped on Amazon and bought a small screwdriver bit set which gave the correct size of cross head screwdriver head to remove the idle control valve and the MAP sensor screws. That arrived next day so then did the swap.

    I then had to change the Syvecs map to match the OEM sensor linearization, thanks to Jasper for the linearization definition. I also changed the default MAP sensor reading on failure, so if it fails again I'll be able to fire the engine up and drive home off load or still have the engine able to idle to keep me warm if stranded.

    Next was to do some checks on the mapping to make sure the sensor is reading correctly and the slight change likely to be seen was safe and if it needed any changes to optimise. So i did some runs with streaming datalogs at various boost levels etc. The did some small tweeks to the fuel and ignition maps to remove any corrections.

    Really loving the Syvecs, it's such an easy to use ECU for mapping with great datalogging functionality, especially when you use the datalog streaming direct to your laptop.

  8. #188
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    Another year over with very little use since the last update unfortunately, hopefully 2021 gradually improves for everyone.

    Updates on the car over the last 12 months.

    I replaced the 2 rear solid brake lines as they were showing some corrosion at the joiner point ahead of the fuel tank, now with top quality material.
    The power steering stopped working for a moment whilst driving and the feel was changing, looking at it, it has had a small weep developing, so i bought a low mileage replacement unit from MattyB and fitted that, all back to normal now. It was the original pump so had done 132K miles.

    I've also renewed the front brake disks and f/r pads for some Brembo OEM spec, my Performance Friction disks are dead and i cant justify the cost of new disks for the bells right now. The new brakes dont have the same bite as my previous setup, but good enough for now for road use. As part of the swap the threads failed on the front Brembos, as is quite common at this age, so i helicoiled them and fitted new OEM bolts.

    I'm still on the OEM Hawkeye spec C suspension i fitted a few years ago now, but have rebuilt my KW Clubsports now and blasted/powdercoated the springs, I also stripped the front whiteline top mounts, had them properly chemy blacked where steel, bought new fasteners and also fitted new spherical joints. I filled the dampers with motorsport grade fluid and dyno tested them. They are now sat on the bench waiting for me to get the motivation to install them. The reason for the rebuild was due to a crack developing on one rear unit at the welding of the mount bracket to main body, the fluid had started to leak from there. I had our fabricator at work repair that after stripping everything down. To get the tops off i made a tool as KW wouldn't sell me one and on rebuild got the nitrogen replenished by the race damper shop i use for work.

    Other than that not a lot has happened, i keep the car permanently on a CTEK charger as it's not being driven much right now.

    I've recently bought a new laptop which doesn't have a LAN connector, so needed an adapter for USB to LAN for the Syvecs, bought one and that works well, but whilst looking at this another option was to install a wifi based solution. So I now have my Syvecs connected to a Wifi router, no need to plug in. I'll do a permanent install for this when i install a 12V to USB power source in the car, at the moment i just plug in a power feed from the laptop USB when i want to use it.

  9. #189
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    Latest pictures

    Sharing the track with one of my customers in his Spa 6 hours winning GT40, not the right car for these conditions!
    JSB_0171.jpg

    Snow shot 2021
    20210124_202344.jpg

  10. #190
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    A lot of places sell new discs to suit various bells at sensible prices. They seem to just take big OEM discs and machine them to suit a bell PCD.

    IMO, in a lot of cases they would probably be better suited to road cars too.

    The race discs of various brands....just not convinced they're that great for normal road use. Hell, on my own car I even moved back to 1144's lol All these fancy newer materials do have some good points and bad. I've just had a lot of them fall apart and crumble, or some leave horrendous deposits on the wheels etc.
    I never had any problems like that with the old Mintex. Can't say it's moved much over last year or so though.

  11. #191
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    The PF disks have a floating attachment system, so the only disks that work are the PF ones. Unfortunately they are quite expensive.
    The pads i used for Sprints were brilliant as a road pad, only downside was the deposits they could leave and they aren't high enough temp for proper track use beyond a sprint length.
    I bought some PF race pad material for the last event, they killed the disks on the road because they needed to be hotter to not eat the metal.

  12. #192
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    Yea, I've floating discs too...PITA really.

    My first set were the old AP bobbin type, discs expensive, bobbins expensive...all round expensive. So when I needed new discs I decided to get new bells with the modern float in the bell design and standard round hole discs so future disc changes could be cheaper and easier. But with new discs/bells/floaters I ended up spending far more lol.

    Not sure if the bell then has a lifespan ? Not that it has moved much in recent times.

    Whatever happened the marcel strap type floaters ?....I liked that idea.

  13. #193
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    Anything that has movement in it will wear, it depends on the design how that impacts the bell life.
    The PF setup gives you new wearing parts when you buy new disks, so the only real life on the bell is from corrosion if the anodising is attacked by salt.

    One of the biggest issues with floating disks on road cars is they get clogged up with shit, on a race car you are cleaning and maintaining them regularly so its not an issue.

    The first floating system design i have used came about with a collaboration between Lockhead and McLaren for the 1968 CanAm series, they carried that over to the F1 car the same year, it was then offered commercially by AP/Lockhead at the end of 1969 for the 1970 season.

    APBrakeadvert.jpg

  14. #194
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    I bought new PF discs the last time. I started with AP then a cheap replacement disc (cheap for a reason and the didn't last long and now i'm using PF - so far so good. I used to use cheap Yellow EBC pads but they didn't stop well and didn't last a track day. I've now moved to PF (Carbon Ceramics I think), which are brilliant but pricey.

    I'll refurb my AST coilies at some point as they are all still original and untouched (except for a spring rate change) since the day Curtis bodged them onto the car...

  15. #195
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    I've found the biggest impact on disk wear is having a pad compound within its working temperature range. A race spec PF pad used on the road tears the steel in the disk because it's not laying down a working carbon surface onto the disk.

    With my current pad choice, it's mainly for dust and wear reasons which is sacrificing some overall braking performance. The pad i used on sprints is a fantastic road pad apart from the dust aspect, that is no good for a trackday because its only got a limited temperature range, on sprints it never gets a hot enough disk bulk temp for that to be an issue.

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