You can increase the logging rate and number of parameters significantly using streamed logging, you need to create a new config file to do this.
You can also benefit from changing the datalog start/stop parameters in the Calibration file to suit streaming better.
circa 450BHP and 470lbft, has about 520lbft with 20% Meth
my audi is 410 bhp 395 torqe so both may leave me easy.
Yep, Thats why I said BOTH may leave me easy. 2215kg, Just a slow suv.
That's a house.![]()
Another 2 years gone and still going strong. Now has 141,600 miles on the clock
Work done since the last update has included a new timing belt kit and a high flow cast impellor water pump, I've had the water radiator re-cored and it's now having the oil cooler part of the assembly replaced after that sprung a leak, which should be back in shortly.
The steering wheel was looking a bit on the tired side, so i had that retrimmed, it felt like a new car after that.
One of the fuel injectors died, so i replaced all 4 with some new Bosch 975cc items and renewed the wiring plugs, which had started to corrode on the contact terminals. I then remapped the Syvecs myself to suit the new injectors. I also fitted a lab calibrated lambda sensor.
The heater motor unit decided to stop working, so i replaced that with a good used item from MattyB. Starter motor disintegrated too, so that was replaced with new.
The OEM twin scroll headers cracked again at the mount flanges on the heads, they had been repaired twice so the heat cycle age had hit it's limit, so i sourced another set of OEM headers from Alyn and fitted those.
Next was a new top radiator hose, it was a tad close to the top pulley when i swapped out the radiator last time and took a little nick, so i fitted a new one and gave it more clearance.
I also got round to installing my rebuilt KW Clubsport suspension to the car, but the repair on the rear strut where it cracked initially didn't hold out, so i bought a pair of new rear struts to the latest clubsport spec. I also replaced the springs front and rear with rates back to the original clubsport spec, which are 10N/mm softer than i ran when sprinting. One of the springs gave up the ghost after the refit of my original repaired kit, so i had to change them anyway. That cost me as much as the complete kit did back in the day, prices of parts like this have rocketed.
Final big job has been to sort the bodywork, the boot lid had rusted through under the spoiler, which is a common problem, the rear arch plastic covers were also looking tired after so many miles, so i had these issues sorted. Whilst the arch covers were off they found some rust on the panels under the covers, and the steel work on the arch lips was also rusting, so they rectified those issues at the same time. The boot lid was repaired using old school techniques where it was lead filled, rather than using filler. Whilst the spoiler was off i replaced all the foam anti vibration tape with a genuine set from Japan. I had the rear bumper removed and repainted to remove some scratches and whilst off all the steel plates that carry the bumper were replaced, these were painted before fitment as they come with just a thin coat of paint on them, so they should last a long time.
I've also finally got the launch control and flat shifting working together off the one clutch switch on the Syvecs. It's never worked properly with the car bogging on launch as the countdown timer didn't start until it saw a speed input, which lagged a lot. The issue was a bug in the Syvecs firmware that the release notes state was fixed in version 100. It was fixed in version 103, the last release they have done for the S6. So if you are on an earlier Syvecs firmware release, it's worth updating just for that. Prior to that release the option to use the one switch for both functions, although there in the software, didn't work in practice.
Sorting this issue has made a significant difference to launch. It now pulls 1.2G on cold normal road tyres.
I've also fitted a new set of Michelin PS4 tyres, they lasted just short of 3 years. Although these tyres are not directional, i found when rotating them for wear if you don't keep the tyres always on the same side as originally fitted, you get massive torque steer. They must cure/wear in one load direction. So always rotate LF to LR and RF to RR and not cross them left to right.
I still dont have my JDM gearbox back in the car, that needs to happen soon as it's been years, i rebuilt the rear diff with new seals and repainted the case, bead blasted the alloy covers and fitted new nuts, so that's ready to go in.
So the work since the last update has been a fair spend to keep it properly maintained, but it's still going strong and when you want, it's still bloody quick, whilst being a perfectly docile road car when driven normally.
nice one John, good to see it still going strong