Piecing together a 22B

[Boeleni]

Hello,

Like many others, I have always thought that one day I would own a 22B. That day may yet come, but while watching the prices of 22B's skyrocket over the past few years and after finally seeing 22B's in Japan on vacation last year I've decided to try and piece together a 22B replica car with the goal to recreate the driving experience of an OEM standard 22B. I've been slowly gathering parts and hope to get some feedback from those that have actually driven \ maintained \ owned \ tuned 22B's to see if I'm on the right track.

My base car for this project is a 1998 Subaru Impreza WRX STI IV Type R V-Limited which I thought would get me the 22B gear ratios, rear diff, brakes, heads, and of course the 2 door shell in 74F. My plan is to start with the driveline before moving on to the suspension, interior, and aesthetics.

I'm using an EJ22T block from a USDM Legacy Turbo. I was able to find a set of original stock bore 22B pistons, which I intend to use with the EJ22T legacy crank paired with some EJ207 rods from an STI V7. I have the option of using the V7 crank but from my forum searching it sounds like at stock power levels its not worth machining the block and dealing with the change in thrust bearing position. I'm not sure which headgasket to use yet and could use some advice here.

Engine management will be a Link G4 PnP which will sit in an original 22B Ecu Case I was lucky enough to come across.

I am planning on running the original JDM 22B clutch setup. I've read that they don't last long but I don't intend on driving this car all that much (have another GC8 for daily driving as well as a GC Time Attack track car) and I really want to experience what the original 22B was like. I've been able to source a new 22B flywheel, but have not bought the clutch yet and could still be convinced to go with the AP Racing UK 22B clutch. Is it possible\beneficial to use the JDM Clutch Cover with AP disks to try and get some extra longevity? I've seen the 22B specific clutch bulkhead pipes for sale, guessing I should use that with the Twin Plate clutch?

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[johnfelstead]

Its pointless using the original 22B clutch, or the AP version, they are garbage.

Just use a good single plate clutch and flywheel assembly based around the intended power/torque.

If you are using a set of 2.0 litre heads you will need to match them to the 2.2 bore.

[big_rob_sydney]

I owned #301 for 7 years, and had it maintained in the UK by time attack champions Zen Performance, then shipped it to Australia and had it maintained by their local champions, Pulse.

After all that time, I can tell you a few observations. The 22B has many upgraded parts over and above the type r it was sourced from. There are around 150 changes, give or take. And truthfully, the tech has moved on considerably. What you get from the 22B is a raw (literally) car, manufactured in limited numbers, with a tenuous link to motorsport. It never competed directly, but is visually similar to the rally cars.

If you wanted to replicate a raw car, then yes, go for it. If you wanted something that was a modified gc8, then there's no reason to do this, apart from maybe chasing the silhouette of an iconic car. In saying that, what you create will never be a 22B, and will never be worth anywhere remotely close, because it will only ever be considered a gc8 with a bodykit.

For me, if I were after a modified gc8, I'd say screw it, and follow what Andy F did (6 cylinder engine, more capacity = more air moved = more power). But if you want the 22B look, try the HT Autos bodykit. Word of warning, I have heard it mentioned that attaching fibreglass or similar materials to the metal body may look good initially, but the rear arches will eventually crack and look terrible. Trying to get metal arches made up is, cost-wise, not cheap.

Good luck which ever way you go.

[Boeleni]

Thanks for the input guys! Nice to see you are still posting John, I still remember watching your V5 Ring vids over and over way back when!

This is a passion project; especially as the cars weren't available over here until very recently. I've got my Time Attack GC8 for all the modern day mods. Not looking to make any more power than the standard 22B on this one (whatever that was, will cross that bridge when we get there lol)

I thought the 22B heads were literally STI Ver IV heads? Were the bores matched from factory? I remember a lot of discussion way back about machining the 2.0L heads for the 2.5L blocks but 2.2's didn't need it?

My Pistons (STD Bore stock 22B Pistons) didn't come with any paperwork, does anyone know the proper piston skirt clearance? ring gap?

Some before and after magic:

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IMG_2603.jpg
IMG_2602.jpg

[johnfelstead]

Thats going back a bit now.

The stock 22B made no more power than a 2.0 STi but had a little more torque. I really wouldn't bother with a genuine clutch, its a waste of money for a less good part. Feel wise they don't feel any different.

I cant remember if the 22B stock head was matched to the bore, but its something i would do if stripping the engine.

I would think if you used the middle range of clearances for the 2.0 litre STi5 engine you wouldn't go far wrong in terms of piston clearance and ring gaps if you are using stock power levels.

STi5engine.jpg

[Boeleni]

Thanks John, think I will go with 0.02mm. Hard to believe the OE forged pistons don't expand more than the cast ones but I'm no engineer so we'll follow their original recipe.

[David_Wallis]

having done both ht autos and abw kits, I would never use the HT Autos kit again, Darrens (ABW) fits so much better.. (No connections)

[Boeleni]

May be a while before I get to the exterior but will probably go with L'aunsport. Paul Wheeler of RPM Innovation in Exeter is talking about making steel panel replicas so that may be an interesting option for the wings.