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Thread: 2017 Sprint and Hillclimb Season

  1. #41
    22B Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe cross View Post
    That was going to be my next question Justin, as to where your sensor is mounted. Mine is also in a similar position and I also struggle with temps, hence all the messing around I do to keep it under control.
    I considered repositioning the sensor, just need to find the optimum position to move it to. I considered mounting it in the rear of the plenum, I need to do some testing with the heat lazer gun.
    Don't put it in the plenum, you get a lot of heat soak and because the aluminium bulk is large you don't get a true reading of the air.
    It wants to be in the airflow aft of the intercooler core away from any heat soak source, mounted in a boss that isn't part of a large bulk. Not easy to find on a Subaru but that's your target.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Justin A's Avatar
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    John I set it that low since for the last few seasons its never got above 93 - including Hethel, so if it gets to 97 then something may be amiss. Ambients were the hottest I've seen at Hethel this time.

    A 1.3 bar cap is already on the list of things to do!
    MSA Class Records Pembrey, MIRA, Llandow, Silverstone Stowe - class 1C, Goodwood - class 3, Hethel, Snetterton, Lydden Hill - class A6
    FTDs Simon Roe Memorial - May 2015, Crystal Palace - 26th May 2014, North Weald - March 2013
    BARC Overall Champion BARC SBD National Speed Championship 2015

    With thanks to ASPerformace, AndyForrestPerformance, SDMotorsport, JT Innovations, never forgetting Simon Roe

  3. #43
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    Your something amiss is the cooling capacity of your system isn't up to the job of providing a stable temperature under all circumstances, you know this of course.

    That doesn't change the fact you were contemplating backing off for no good reason.

    You don't need a warning light to tell you that the trend of your coolant isn't ideal, you should only use it to tell you to switch off when a problem occurs, otherwise you could be throwing away a perfectly safe good run and taking concentration away from where it should be, going faster.

    You aren't driving a racing car where you could save a good result by backing off for a while to bring temps down, in sprinting its either flat out or say goodbye to a decent result, so set your warning points appropriately and you will win more, even if you are running at the margins.

    Obviously the long term answer is improve your cooling, but even with that in place, put the warning light at a point where you have to come off the power, you then just look at your temps post run and see if you need to address an issue that is creeping into the system.

    If you don't do that what tends to happen is you get used to seeing a warning light come on, which means when you do have to instantly switch off, you waste time contemplating if its a problem you can ignore. Warning lights on a sprint car should be terminal occurrence only, use your data logs and gauges for trends.

  4. #44
    22B Moderator
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    I forgot to say, well done Justin, top stuff on the results you are achieving.

  5. #45
    Senior Member mickywrx's Avatar
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    Congratulations Justin.
    12.4s @ 105mph standing 1/4 mile. 329BHP - 289lb/ft

  6. #46
    Senior Member Justin A's Avatar
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    Thanks both.

    John I seem to ignore all warnings anyway, not ideal but its eitber a case of not noticing due to focus, or an attitude of "Syvecs will sort it out"..... must do better lol
    MSA Class Records Pembrey, MIRA, Llandow, Silverstone Stowe - class 1C, Goodwood - class 3, Hethel, Snetterton, Lydden Hill - class A6
    FTDs Simon Roe Memorial - May 2015, Crystal Palace - 26th May 2014, North Weald - March 2013
    BARC Overall Champion BARC SBD National Speed Championship 2015

    With thanks to ASPerformace, AndyForrestPerformance, SDMotorsport, JT Innovations, never forgetting Simon Roe

  7. #47
    22B Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin A View Post
    David, yes -and at present the only speed sensor I have is from the gearbox which manually drives the speedo, from there it is converted to a signal for the ECU.

    I should mention at this point I will be using a standalone DCCD controller, having researched what is available and chatting to Matt at MapDCCD Motorsport, I will be running their controller next year. In fact it is already installed in the car but due to minimal runtime I get at events and every event being crucial to score points - I haven't had the chance to play/experiment with it, it has only been used in OE thumbwheel mode, so I haven't exploited any benefits this excellent bit of kit will bring.
    Was going to suggest you could use other sensors, brackets etc to pick up wheel speed from the shafts or similar if you really didnt want to change the hubs as a stop gap, but sounds like you have it covered

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